My Rust Diary
June 23, 2008; some work on the inside surface of the "longs" and putting in the cross-member / firewall;
You have to keep in mind that most of the stuff shown on this page is only applicable if you are converting the car to a water cooled engine. This means that the heater ducts are not required.
I had focusing issues with my camera and I didn't know until it was too late. Sorry.
Working on the passenger side "long" "air hole";
This is pretty much self explaining. I first off cut out the rusted outer skin at the lower edge, then made up a filler plate. The reason you can't see through the hole is that I welded in a filler panel from the inside while the long was apart.
I then did tack welds between the outer skin and the inner skin. The filler plate was notched to clear the tack welds.
Here is a photo of the welded filler panel and also one view from the other side of the car.
Working on the drivers side "long" "air hole";
This is pretty much the same thing as was done on the passenger side. The big difference is that I cut off the metal hot air tube flush with the inside face of the long and tack welded it so it doesn't rattle around.
Putting the cross-member / firewall;
The previous owner had purchased a replacement cross-member and he did some work on it, removing un-needed sections. Pretty much just photos. You will notice that in the second photo, you can see where I welded in a filler where the hot air tube was. It was just tack welded at the two ends when these photos were taken.
In the next two photos, you can see how I had to clamp it so that it was aligned. I had to do this clamping and welding starting at the center, working out to the two sides.
That's it for now.
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Wes Vann